A Year's End Gift
Happy holidays! I hope it has been as restful and relaxing as possible.
With house guests, a big holiday party for extended family, and unexpected stomach flu that totally knocked me out, I am a little behind with the final, somewhat Christmas-related newsletter I had hoped to send. Instead—inspired by an old friend
—I am rounding up ten of my favourite paid newsletters of the year and removing the paywall until January 1st.Many of these are sections of multi-part research investigations, such as my four-part look at different aspects of Richard Simmons’ career. In such cases, I am including links to all sections for ease of reading. Hopefully, you have some extra time over the next few days to read some of these pieces, covering everything from fashion to fitness and retail, celebrity and cinema, dance and design.
Thank you for being here, reading and subscribing—and most of all, for being interested and engaged in the little rabbit holes of history I go down.
The Creation of Richard Simmons
Months ago, I came across a mention of a Richard Simmons clothing line, the first athleticwear for what we now call “plus size” women, in a 1980s newspaper and marked it as a subject to return to. Once I started doing background research on it, it became clear that first I needed to discuss the early years of his fitness career (and his brief forays int…
Richard Simmons II: Rudi Gernreich & Simpatico
When I first started researching Richard Simmons, I hadn’t expected that—pre-exercise, pre-fame—he had designed a line of jewelry successful enough to be profiled in newspapers and used by Rudi Gernreich. Whether due to faulty memory or for other reasons, Richard rewrote when and how this fits into his history.
Richard Simmons III: Interiors for Sweatin'
Picking up from last week’s discussion of Richard Simmons’ early years and his jewelry line, an exploration of his establishments and their décor. With a check in his pocket from a loyal Derrick’s customer, Richard Simmons set off in early 1975 to find a spot for his novel salad bar/gym concept.
Richard Simmons IV: Plus-Size Activewear
As I mentioned in the first part of my series on Richard Simmons, I became inspired to research him after coming across a mention of his brief mid-80s plus-size clothing collection. Below is an exploration of his several attempts to get into apparel.
'The French Connection' and Le Dernier Cri
Re-watching The French Connection (1971) a few weeks ago, I was taken in (as always) by the 1970s New York street scenes—taking note of the signs, soaking in the whole vibe as detective Gene Hackman follows heroin smuggler Alain Charnier (Fernando Rey) around the East 60s. When people ask me for advice on hip restaurants in NYC, I always joke that I have no idea but I could give them a full list of where to go in 1971—and it’s true. After many hours and years pouring over old newspapers and magazines, researching every little ad or mention, I am far more knowledgeable about the stores and restaurants of 1970s NYC than today. One sign that particularly caught my eye this viewing was for Le Dernier Cri. Hackman hesitates next to the lowercase brass sans serif letters, the pale concrete façade diagonally cutting down to the street behind him.
Renaissance in Fashion 1942
On February 26, 1942, the president of the Metropolitan Museum of Art William Church Osborn announced that “the first comprehensive exhibit of contemporary costumes and dress fabrics to be held at the museum” would open there that April. Called “Renaissance in Fashion 1942,” the exhibition sought to highlight the best of American fashion through the len…
The Golden Wedding of Sly Stone & Kathy Silva
“I called you at five-fifty-four. My name is Sly, and I wish you would make my wedding the biggest event this year. You can do it if you want to. I’ll be at home awaiting your ideas. Ha. Ha. Ha. Don’t let me intimidate you.” When funk musician Sly Stone married Kathy Silva in front of around 23,000 screaming fans on stage at Madison Square Garden, the me…
Le Drugstore: A Parisian take on America
When a classic American-style drugstore—complete with a soda fountain and lunch counter—first opened in Paris in 1958, it was quite immediately declared the hippest place in town. Located on the corner of the Champs-Élysées and Rue de Presbourg, a block from the Arc de Triomphe, Le Drugstore (also called Drugstore Publicis) was an immense tribute to Ame…
Le Drugstore goes New York
I usually try to get out my paid subscribers’ emails over the weekend, but sometimes life happens. This is a follow-up to last week’s free email about Le Drugstore Paris, charting how the American-themed emporium was imported back to the United States.
Bringing Splendor Back to the Ballet
As she was described in the first line of her Los Angeles Times obituary, Rebekah West Harkness was a “modern-day Catherine de Medici, who gave millions to support ballet and medical research.” A truly fascinating character, Rebekah was the recipient of some attention a few years ago as Taylor Swift wrote a song about her and owns Harkness’ Watch Hill e…
The Harkness Theater
Following on from my last newsletter… For Rebekah Harkness, the Harkness Ballet, School, and House were not enough. She wanted a theater too—“the first and only major theater in the U.S. specifically designed for dance.” In early 1972 she purchased the Colonial Theater, an old vaudeville house on 62nd and Broadway, for $1,500,000 (almost $11 million toda…
Flying Down to Rio, 1946
When I saw something the other day about Carolina Herrera showing its Resort 2024 collection in Rio de Janeiro (you can see the collection here or read about the reasoning on Vogue Business), it made me think of a much earlier time when American designers exhibited their wares in Brazil—all at the invitation of Brazilian playboy millionaire
In Memory of Jon Haggins
Up until Jon Haggins’ unexpected death in mid-June, I was in communication with him about setting up an interview for my podcast, Sighs & Whispers. I wanted to speak with him about childhood in Florida and Brooklyn, being a fashion rising star in the late 1960s and early 70s—part of the first wave of Black fashion designers to make a splash in the mains…
A Very Fashionable Wedding
For more on Jon Haggins’ fashion career, please read my last newsletter. When Jon Haggins met model June Murphy at his fall show in May 1970, there was an instant connection. As he told the New York Times in 2017: “I met June when she came into the studio to collect her money from doing a show. It was just something magical when she walked in. They say y…
At Home with Jon Haggins
Following up on my pieces about Jon Haggins’ fashion career and fashion show wedding, today I am discussing the design of his 1970s apartment. Fashion designer interiors are a favourite subject of mine—previously I have written about the homes and offices of
Jean Bouquin: The Pied Piper of Hippie Fashion
I first pulled this research together for a newsletter a while ago—a year and a half ago, in fact—as I was off to a wedding in the South of France and wanted to publish a piece in keeping with the trip. In the rush of completing work and packing, I never got around to writing it—until now. Here is the story of the short-lived yet very influential hippie…