The Romance of Food
Valentine's Day eating with Barbara Cartland
With Valentine’s Day coming up next week, you might be looking for a menu that tempts all of the senses, soothes, and seduces—and where better to find one than from "the true Queen of Romance", Barbara Cartland?
A delectably silly confection of a historical romance novel has always been my comfort read throughout my life—I prefer them easy to read with dashing dukes and fair maidens. The queen of this style of cotton candy romance is Barbara Cartland, whose appearance was as bubblegum pink as the content of her 723 novels. One of the most prolific writers of all time, Cartland has long been one of my main inspirations—not only due to the speed of her writing (actually done by dictation) and the success of her books (somewhere between 750m and 2b sold) but primarily due to the way she truly created her life.
I Seek the Miraculous was the title of one of Cartland’s many non-fiction books (this one a quasi-memoir) and also her maxim for living. Cartland looked for the miraculous in all aspects of her life and where she couldn’t find it she created or even fabricated it. I’ve read several biographies of her, as well as her memoirs, and what stands out is her self-creation and also how often paradoxical she was. A fluffy pink romance novelist and a hard-nosed businesswoman. A Conservative party life member and a passionate supporter of oppressed groups like the Romani. The public voice of the nascent natural health movement, who paired her vitamins with champagne and cream sauces at lunch. A believer in reincarnation obsessed with the British aristocracy. Very vocal in the media yet a true enigma, Barbara Cartland was all of these things and more.
Among her many non-fiction books is The Romance of Food, a 1984 paean to foods that “inspire – stimulate – satisfy!” Yes, it is a cookbook—but one that indulges in all the author’s idiosyncrasies, tied up with a big pink bow. Each recipe is accompanied by Barbara’s notes providing historical precedents, aphrodisiac data relating to vitamins and minerals, and occasionally poetry to recite to your lover while feeding him. Dishes are often as romantically titled as her novels—“Dreams Do Come True” perhaps more redolent of romance than a plate of veal kidneys might normally signal.
Her autobiography might be titled I Reach for the Stars but what truly touches the stars are the lavish full-colour photographs that dot the book. As detailed in the frontispiece, “all the photographs were taken under the personal supervision of the author at her home in Hertfordshire, using her own backgrounds and ornaments.” Against lace tablecloths or solid colored seamless, David Johnson captured carefully plated dishes accompanied by the spoils of Cartland’s collecting—whether a perfectly tiered fish terrine nestled next to quartz and silver koi or a Meissen Napoleon guarding “Chicken Marengo” (named for one of his famous battles), the food and prop styling are diametrically opposed to the studied casualness of contemporary cookbooks and blogs. As heavy on tchotchkes as the recipes are heavy on cream, it is truly from another time; considering her personal chef adds comments under many of the dishes, this is hardly surprising. For a woman obsessed with health—and one who truly presaged many of our current wellness and nutrition trends—her diet leaned toward the heady. It’s one of the many incongruities that makes her so fascinating to me.
If you are planning some gastronomic seduction, please look to her menus for lunch and dinner included below. Polish your silver platter, dust off your porcelain figurines, and get ready for some romance!
THE ROMANCE OF FOOD
Cooking is an Art! Food should first delight the eyes, then the mind and eventually the stomach. Food and Love have had a close relationship all through the ages.
No one understands that better than the French to whom cooking is a sacred trust handed down from generation to generation. It is, of course, from France that the new Picture Cooking, which I show in the book, has come.
Every Frenchman chooses his food with the same care, and the same concentration, as when he chooses a woman to love.
And his Food must inspire — stimulate — satisfy!
I have found in my research that every plant, herb, leaf and fruit has, at some time, been known for its aphrodisiacal powers.
What wise women, the witches, the gypsies and young girls seeking a husband can also give us are a list of those which are definitely magical.
Yet just as with the Greeks, Romans, the Arabs and the Hindus, some of their recipes may seem ludicrous, others are successfully stimulating to love and most important, highly nutritious!
I hope this book brings you both.
ONE OF MY FAVORITE LUNCHEON MENUS (for 4)
Coulibiac of Salmon
½ lb frozen puff pastry, thawed
½ lb cooked fresh salmon
1 ¼ cups mayonnaise
2 hard cooked eggs
1 medium-size onion, chopped
2 tablespoons butter
½ lb mushrooms, sliced
salt and pepper
1 lightly beaten egg yolk
shrimp, samphire or snow peas, cherry tomatoes, cucumber and lemon slices for garnish
¾ cup cream
Nigel Gordon: While the puff pastry is thawing, pound or puree the cooked salmon and mix with half the mayonnaise. Then separate the egg whites from the yolks and chop both finely. Sauté the onion in the butter until soft, add the mushrooms and continue cooking for 5 minutes. Season. Roll out the pastry into a rectangle 12 x 13 inches and arrange the ingredients for the filling in layers, starting with the salmon, the mushrooms and onion next, and finally the egg yolks and white on top. Close up the pastry, folding over the edges from each side, and brushing them with egg yolk to seal. Shape the coulibiac so that it resembles a fish and decorate with small, overlapping circles of pastry to form scales, securing them and glazing them with egg yolk. Bake in a preheated 400° oven for 45 minutes. Garnish as shown in the photograph. Add the cream to the remaining mayonnaise and serve separately as a sauce.
Barbara Cartland: One of my favorite menus for luncheon parties of twelve people is Coulibiac of Salmon and we are fortunate in that we catch our own salmon in Scotland in the autumn. I have them cut up, frozen immediately and bring them down south by car.
The hotel where we stay on the way keeps them in their freezer during the night and I then have them put into our own deep freezer as soon as we arrive.
They keep perfectly, but I do not like boiled salmon unless it comes straight from the river.
I find Coulibiac of Salmon an excellent way of serving it for a luncheon party. The good presentation is essential and my Chef, Nigel Gordon, brings it in on a large dish wearing his Chef's clothes and white hat and shows it to the chief lady guest before he cuts it into slices on the sideboard. I have found, unlike most recipes, it is a mistake to cover the salmon without first making it into a salmon cream. It then has to be shaped before it is covered with the pastry. Salmon is one of the richest fish that exists. The continued belief since Roman times that oysters, fish — especially salmon — raw eggs, raw vegetables, pomegranates and honey lead to increased sexual prowess is right.
Chicken with Orange Surprise
1 teaspoon ground ginger
½ teaspoon sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
3 lb roaster chicken
1 tablespoon butter or sunflower oil
1 onion, sliced
4 thin-skinned oranges
1 tablespoon cornstarch
¾ cup orange juice
¾ cup hard cider
2 tablespoons light corn syrup
6 wishbones for garnish (see note below)
Mix together the ginger, salt and pepper and rub into the chicken then roast it in oven preheated to 350° for 1 hour. Melt the butter and sauté the onion and finely shredded peel of ½ orange until clear. Then blend the cornstarch with a little orange juice, add the remainder of the orange juice and the cider. Bring this mixture to a boil, stirring, and then blend in the corn syrup. Remove the chicken from the oven and cut it into slices, place on a serving dish and pour over the hot sauce. Garnish with the remaining oranges, peeled and divided into segments. Arrange the wishbones down the center of the dish.
Note: To prepare the wishbones, scrape all flesh from them, then soak and wash well in a mild bleach solution.
Barbara Cartland: This is absolutely delicious and delightful to look at. The first mention of oranges appears in the writings of the Arabs. Oranges were introduced into the western hemisphere by Christopher Columbus when he established a settlement on the island of Hispaniola in 1493. In England they were raised from seeds brought into the country by Sir Walter Raleigh.
Oranges are full of Vitamin C which is essential to good health but it is easier and actually more effective to take tablets. I take one of 1 000 mg. every day.
A tisane of the leaves of an orange tree is good for all nervous afflictions; the juice is antiseptic and induces sleep and so do the flowers.
Ice Cream in Brandy Snap Baskets
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon light corn syrup
¼ cup flour
pinch of ground ginger
½ teaspoon brandy
1 ½ cups vanilla ice cream
1 ½ cups strawberry ice cream or other flavor (or flavors) if you prefer
Melba sauce (see below)
¾ cup heavy cream, lightly whipped
fresh fruits for decoration
Melt the butter, sugar and corn syrup in a small saucepan over a low heat then stir in the flour, ground ginger and brandy. Place teaspoonfuls of this mixture well apart on greased baking sheets and bake them for 8 minutes in a preheated 350° oven. Remove them from the oven, leave them to cool and set a little then loosen with a spatula. Then, working quickly so they don't have time to set hard, shape each one around an orange to form a basket. Have the vanilla and strawberry ice creams ready, in small scoops if possible. Place spoonfuls of Melba sauce on 6 dessert plates. Put a spoonful of lightly whipped cream on top and draw a knife through to form wheel spokes. Put the brandy snap baskets on top of the sauce, fill with ice cream and decorate with fresh fruits. Serves 6.
Melba Sauce
½ lb (1 pint) raspberries, sieved
1 teaspoon arrowroot
¼ cup currant jelly
2 tablespoons Grand Marnier
6 tablespoons sugar
Mix together the raspberry puree, the currant jelly and sugar and bring them to a boil in a small saucepan. Blend the arrowroot with a little water, mix well to a smooth cream, stir in a little of the raspberry mixture and return to the saucepan. Bring briefly to a boil and add the Grand Marnier. Makes about ¾ cup.
Barbara Cartland: The Bourbon vanilla bean is the best and do not use substitutes. Vanilla is known to be an aphrodisiac and stimulant. As a medicine it is prescribed for fevers and hysteria. The Scarlet Strawberry was introduced into England in 1629 and came from Virginia. Medicinally the strawberry treats the Mesenteric glands, cools the blood and dissolves tartar on the teeth.
Fontenelle, the French writer, attributed his long life to strawberries and said: "If I can but reach the season of strawberries it will be well with me."
Cheese
Cheese is an excellent source of protein and I personally enjoy the English cheeses, although I am very fond of Paul Bocuse's restaurant in France where he has 30 different varieties of cheese. I enjoy a good Stilton although I do like a creamy cheese such as a Brie or Camembert. When buying these cheeses, however, do make sure they are not over-ripe.
Not white as snow, like fair Helen,
Not moist like tearful Magdalen.
Not like Argus, full of eyes,
But heavy, like a bull of prize.
Well resisting thumb pressed in,
And let it have a scaly skin.
Eyeless and tearless, in color not white,
Scaly, resisting and weighing not light.
This is a delightful poem written in the thirteenth century by Goodman of Paris so that his wife would not be easily deceived in the market when buying cheese. It is still helpful today.
Coffee
The first coffee shop was opened in London in 1652. By 1858 the import of coffee into Britain was over 60 million tons.
My family and I only use Hag coffee as this does not contain caffeine which is an addictive drug and is definitely bad for one's health. I do not, however, make the coffee in a cup, but in a saucepan and when I have French friends for luncheon they always remark what good coffee it is.
Ordinary coffee will, however, cure violent and irregular palpitations of the heart, brought on by excessive joy or shock. Strong and black, it is also an antidote for many poisons, especially narcotics.
However, to avoid heart difficulties it is far better to take Vitamin E, and a new product called P.C. (Phosphatidyl Choline) which also restores the brain cells when they become senile.
ONE OF MY SPECIAL DINNER MENUS
(for 4)
I think dinner should be a formal meal. First because it is the end of the day and everyone is ready to relax and the easiest way to do this is to have a bath. Afterwards it is a joy to put on clothes one has not worn all day and what could be nicer than to look pretty for a pretty meal? The Americans even if they eat in their very attractive kitchens, have colorful tablecloths, napkins and glasses. We are more traditional and I have a polished table with four tall, red candles in silver candlesticks, lace mats in the evening, high stemmed crystal glasses and a colorful dinner service called "The Chelsea Birds."
Whenever you dine, do make it a meal of good-tempered laughter, of stimulating conversation and most of all, enjoy being with your family and those you love.
Sole Dorothea
1 small onion, chopped
¼ cup butter
2/3 cup long grain rice
1 ¼ cups fresh tomato sauce
1 ¼ cups chicken broth
2 soles, filleted
juice of ½ lemon
salt and pepper
3 tablespoons flour
¾ cup milk
¾ cup cream
bunch of watercress for garnish
Nigel Gordon: Gently sauté the onion in half of the butter until soft, then add the rice, half the tomato sauce and the broth. Stir until boiling and remove to an ovenproof dish. Put into a preheated 350° oven and bake for 30 minutes. The rice should be dry and flaky. Remove from the oven and fill a greased ring mold with the rice, pressing down lightly. Keep warm.
Fold the sole in half and place in a baking dish with lemon juice and salt. Cover with water. Put in the oven and poach for 5 minutes.
Meanwhile make the creamy sauce by melting the remaining butter in a small saucepan. Add the flour and cook for a few minutes, then stir in the milk, cream, remaining tomato sauce, salt and pepper.
Unmold the rice onto a round dish, arrange the cooked sole around and our over the sauce. P Decorate the middle of the rice ring with a bunch of watercress, and the sole with a mushroom cap, or sprig of parsley.
Barbara Cartland: This dish is pink and as pink is a special color for me, I often have a whole pink meal but this is a delicious dish with which to start an important dinner party.
Duck with Orange and Grand Marnier Sauce
1 4-lb duck
2 oranges
1tablespoon brown sugar
1 teaspoon tomato paste
2 teaspoons honey
¼ cup Grand Marnier
flour
orange segments and strips of orange rind for garnish
Roast the duck, carve into slices and keep warm. Break up the bones of the carcass and put with the roasting juices into a saucepan with the juice and pared rind of the oranges. Add 2 teaspoons of the sugar, tomato paste, honey and Grand Marnier (or to taste). Allow to boil for 3-4 minutes. In a separate saucepan, brown the remaining sugar, add the strained orange mixture, skim the top and thicken the sauce with flour. Garnish the duck with orange segments and blanched strips of rind. Serve with fine green beans, peas, asparagus or zucchini.
Barbara Cartland: This is the most delicious duck and honey dish I know, and I ate it first in the Andalucía, a delightful Spanish Restaurant in Rugby.
Fleur-de-Lis d' Amour
4 scoops orange sherbet (see below)
4 scoops strawberry sherbet (see below)
2 egg whites
1 cup confectioners' sugar
4 scoops green apple sherbet (see below)
Melba sauce
¾ cup strained raspberry puree
1tablespoon currant jelly
¼ cup sugar
1 tablespoon Grand Marnier, kirsch or Cointreau
Beat the egg whites lightly in a bowl then add the confectioners' sugar and continue beating until they are stiff and glossy. Pipe onto a lined baking sheet in the shape of lily flowers with three petals and bake in a preheated 200° oven for 4 hours. Take out when ready and cool for a few minutes. Place a scoop of each sherbet in the petals and then place on individual plates on which there is a pool of Melba sauce. Decorate as you wish (see photograph for ideas).
For the green apple sherbet, you will need ¾ cup water and 6 tablespoons sugar. Dissolve the sugar in the water over a low heat, bring to a boil and boil for lo minutes, then add 2 teaspoons lemon juice, and 1 lb peeled and cored tart apples, partly cooked then pureed. Mix well, allow to cool, then freeze to a mushy consistency. Beat 2 egg whites until stiff, fold them into the apple mixture and freeze again.
For the orange sherbet, again use ¾ cup water and 4 cup sugar, boil together for 10 minutes, then add the grated rinds of 1 orange and 1 lemon and leave until the mixture is cold. Add the juice of 2 lemon and 2 oranges, strain into a dish and freeze to a mushy consistency. Beat 2 egg whites until stiff, fold into the orange mixture and return to the freezer.
For the strawberry sherbet, strain 4 cup of strawberry puree and the juice of lemon into a bowl, add 4 cup sugar syrup then freeze. Beat egg whites until stiff and fold into the strawberry mixture. Return to the freezer.
To make the Melba sauce, mix the ingredients well together over a low heat until the currant jelly is dissolved, then cool.
Barbara Cartland: This is so pretty to look at, one feels it is almost wrong to destroy it. I found the green apple sherbet in Florence and thought it was new and delicious. It is important that the apples used should really be what we call a "cooking apple." It will always make me think of that glorious city with its spires and domes, its fourteenth-century Ponte Vecchio and the spiritual beautiful faces of Botticelli's and Raphael's Virgins.
Smoked Salmon Pâte
2 oz smoked salmon
½ cup cottage cheese
¾ cup cream
1 teaspoon chopped chives
1 teaspoon lemon juice
salt and pepper
Pound the salmon, add the cheese and continue pounding until smooth. Then mix in the cream, chives, lemon juice and seasoning. Serve with hot crackers or toast and butter.
Barbara Cartland: This is a fabulous dish and I have never known a man who was not thrilled with it and relaxed and very amenable after eating it. Every ingredient is good for health and sex. Chives were introduced into China by Chang-Ch’ien the famous General of the Han Dynasty. They were used by the Chinese for expelling poisons and in the treatment of hemorrhages. They will also control broken blood vessels.
That is some amazing food styling!